Friday 22 May 2015
If like us you find yourself following each stage on the WSL (staying up way too late or getting far too distracted at work…) and wishing you could be surfing there, why not follow the best and go surf the same great waves? Check out some of the suggestions below – happy surfing!
Thursday 14 May 2015
The question of ‘what size surfboard should I get’ is part of every surfer’s journey. We have all bought boards that are too small, they always look cooler and we get pre-occupied with what we will look like walking with it under arm down the beach rather than whether we can actually surf it!
The truth is today much of mystery, and therefore opportunity to make a terrible decision, is removed. As a big man myself, I was always a little nervous buying new boards. What caught me out a couple of times was thinking length equalled buoyancy. The reality is that it is all about VOLUME. I went from a 6’10 down to a 6’2, but because the 6’2 had more volume it was way easier to surf and meant every session was fun rather than a struggle.
Monday 8 September 2014
I’m up early in the morning when the light is turning from darkness into morning. I’m aiming to get into the water just as the cracks of light begin to pour into the emerging day. Preferably, I’m in a country with warm water and air, although this isn’t essential to my enjoyment. The sun is just beginning to peak over the horizon or over a far away hill or mountain.
You can smell the salt in the air that has been created by the hanging water vapor from the booming surf. The air is fresh, yet thick with the smell of the sea, sand and the reef all merged into one collective clean, yet pungent smell. The smell is intoxicating and always different where ever you are in the world. It is specific to that beach, like a signature and always acts as a reminder of a previous experience that you have had there if you are returning to the same spot.